Q: I am a forty three year old woman and apart from the premature wrinkles I have sun damage and pigmentation. Are there any creams or treatments you can recommend?

A: Anyone who exposes their face to the sun over long periods of time without the use of an S.P.F is at risk of premature ageing, slack muscle tone, pigmentation and worst of all, skin cancer.

Everyone should wear an S.P.F of at least 15 every day, rain or shine.  It should be applied 20 mins before sun exposure for maximum effect.  Even if you have already damaged your skin, it’s not too late to start with an S.P.F to avoid further damage.

I would recommend you use a regime which contains a.h.a’s, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid and lactic acid.  These exfoliate the top layers of your skin, and will also produce new skin growth from deep down in your skin.  This new skin will eventually push its way to the surface, while pushing out any imperfections such as wrinkles, pigmentation and blemishes.  These home use products do however take time, so if you are looking for a more immediate result, there are skin peels or microdermabrasion.

There are two types of skin peel.  The first is a light to medium peel, using a high concentration of a.h.a’s, left on the skin for about 15 mins.  These peels work on the uppermost layers of the skin, and usually a course of 6 over a period of a few months is required.  After this treatment, your skin will look plumper and pigmentation marks will drastically be reduced.

The second type of peel is done using a chemical called phenol.  It goes much deeper than the first type of peel, and your skin will be left pink and slightly inflamed for a few days afterwards.  But, the result is fantastic.  It completely takes away all the damaged and dead skin and replaces it with new, plumper, non pigmented, non wrinkled skin.  A lot of aftercare and gentle homecare is required – it’s not for the faint hearted.

For more in depth information and advice, I would pop in to your local skin care clinic or dermatologist.  Going forward wear an S.P.F. daily.

Ask the Expert was answered today by our skin care therapist Thomasina.

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Today’s tips come from British Skin Foundation Expert Dermatologist, Dr Jennifer Jones, who recommends the following top tips for safety in the sun:

· Wrap Splat Hat! Wrap up with a t-shirt and a hat and apply plenty of suncream.

· Keep an eye on the time; spend time in the shade during peak hours (11am-3pm in the Ireland/UK) when the sun is at its most intense. Nb. This time may vary if you are abroad.

· At home and abroad, try to make sure that children play in the shade.

· Keep babies out of direct sunlight and protect toddlers and children with sunscreen, clothing and shade.

· Wear protective clothing, a hat, and sunglasses.

· Use an SPF suitable to your skin type, we recommend an of SPF50 for children and a minimum of SPF15 for adults.

· Apply sun protection generously all over the body before sun exposure.

· Reapply frequently and generously, at least every 2 hours, especially after swimming, perspiring, playing in the sand and after towel-drying.

· Always apply a product that has provides Photostable UVA and UVB protection for the most reliable sun protection.

· Over-exposure to the sun is a serious health hazard.

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If you are paranoid about the sun and at a loss for words when you come across the odd wally that still doesn’t get it, rest assured there is some progress being made on this subject.  This article will be of particular interest to anyone with kids…

A survey of parents and their children conducted by Garnier Ambre Solaire has revealed a dramatic contrast in attitudes to sun protection. The survey, which questioned 965 parents and children from the age of 6 to 60 on their suncare, showed that there has been a huge shift in sun protection habits over the years revealing three distinct categories of parental attitude:

* Golden Oldies (55+)

Sun worshippers who weren’t aware of sun protection as youngsters and did little to protect their offspring. 42% of Golden Oldies admit to never having worn suncream until the age of 18.

* Protective Parents (36-54)

Mums and dads with older children that have a relaxed attitude to sun protection on themselves but were relatively cautious with their little ones. 78% say that they are more protective of their children than their parents were with them.

* Shade Seekers (18-35)

Take no risks and have a very responsible approach to the sun safety of both themselves and their children. 88% of Shade Seekers were protected from the summer sun by their Protective Parents, and 96% of them are protecting their own children during summer.

Each group felt that they were significantly more careful when it comes to protecting their children from the sun than their parents were (Golden Oldies 79%, Protective Parents 78% and Shade Seekers 69%). This change in attitude means that children today should be able to avoid the regret felt by the 46% of parents who wish they had taken more care of their skin in the sun when they were younger.

Dad’s knowledge of suncare fared badly

However the outlook is not all sunny, as over a quarter of Shade Seekers are not using an adequate SPF to protect their children – 28% are using SPF20 or below and only a quarter (26%) of adults are using the recommended SPF50 on their children, meaning that there is still an education job to be done. Dads in particular fared badly in knowledge of SPFs – 15% thought that an SPF15 meant you were protected for 15 minutes longer compared to sun exposure without sunscreen! And Golden Oldies were even worse with half not knowing what SPF means – hardly surprising given that 27% do not use suncream to protect themselves during the summer.

More to be done

When it comes to burning, parents these days are more aware of the dangers posed by the sun than their own parents – more than 80% of Golden Oldies admitted their children had burnt in the sun, compared to 55% of Shade Seekers – but clearly more needs to be done to get the sun safety message across and reduce this further for the next generation.

Next Generation: The Cover up kids (6-13)

Survey findings suggest that this approach to education is working. 90% of 6-9 year olds questioned said that their parents put a sun hat on them during summer compared to just 36% of Golden Oldies when they were children. The survey also showed that more recent innovations in sun protection have started to become popular with beach tents, sunsuits and protective clothing proving to be popular accessories for summer 2010.

Skincare expert Dr Jennifer Jones, a Consultant Dermatologist at the Royal Free and St John & Elizabeth Hospitals and spokesperson for British Skin Foundation, believes that parents should take advantage of the new technology that is available to them: “The good news is that there appears to be a general trend amongst younger generations towards protecting young skin from the sun including use of sunscreen and hats, and it is encouraging to see that UV suits and beach tents are being used with increasing frequency.”

“It is of concern, however, that despite their best intentions parents are not always using adequate protection. In this survey only 25% of parents use the recommended SPF 50 on their children. Clearly more education is required with respect to the significance of SPF. Two groups who, in the current climate are often primary carers, grandparents and fathers clearly lack some understanding in this area.”

Celeb mum and Garnier spokesperson Davina McCall says: “As a mother of three I am so careful about keeping my children protected from the sun. Our understanding of sun protection has evolved so much since I was a kid and we are all so much more aware of the dangers now aren’t we?.”

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Q: Why are anti-ageing serums beneficial and how should I use one?

A: Anti-ageing serums are definitely beneficial in helping to prevent or prolong the onset of ageing, because serums are highly concentrated in active ingredients and are more fluid based so that they penetrate the skin much quicker than a traditional moisturiser and deliver quicker results.

When applying serums, always apply prior to your daily moisturiser and for best results, use morning and evening. La Roche-Posay recently launched the first serum in their range – DERM AOX. This Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Serum is €35 and suitable as a serum for any stage of ageing. It is non-comedogenic (blackheads), paraben-free (nasty preservatives!) and tested on every skin type including sensitive skin.  For what we thought of this product please read our review.

Our ask the expert question has been answered today by La Roche-Posay’s Training Manager, Janette Ryan.

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Q: Can you be too young to start an anti-ageing routine?

A: Yes, I think you can be too young to start an anti-ageing routine. Although everyone’s skin is different and there are many factors that contribute to how our skin’s age – the initial signs of ageing are expression lines. These can often occur from the late 20’s or early 30’s as a result of laughing, smiling and frowning. Usually between the ages of 20 and 25, cell renewal drops by up to 28% and your cells divide slower so that “glow” associated with youthful skin diminishes and reoccurs more slowly – but that doesn’t mean you need to start using an anti-ageing product. There are many products available on the market to restore a youthful glow!

Using anti-ageing products too early or products which are targeted at a more mature skin will not be of any benefit to you as the active ingredients are effective on the skin which they are targeted at. Depending on the active ingredients and the concentration of them in the product sometimes these ingredients can over stimulate the skin which they are not intended for and cause increased sensitivity.

The best time to start using anti-ageing products is when you as an individual feel that your skin looks ‘aged’ and you want to do something about it. It will depend on your skin type, genetics, your sun exposure, smoking history, and how well you have protected your skin from environmental assaults in the past. Prevention is always better than cure, UVA rays are the No1 cause of preventable skin ageing, so the most important thing anyone can do is wear UV protection daily.

Our ask the expert question has been answered today by La Roche-Posay‘s Training Manager, Janette Ryan.

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Over the past number of weeks I have been using a selection of sun protection products from the LA ROCHE-POSAY range and I must say I am very impressed with each and every one of them. Let me start with the face product – ANTHELIOS EXTREME FLUID 50+ VERY HIGH PROTECTION. Extreme fluid it certainly is so be warned as to how thin a liquid this is but so nice and easy to apply to the face and neck area. Previous products I have used felt as though they dragged on my skin to apply as they were much thicker textures. I am very happy with the protection level it gives me. It is water resistant and is recommended for combination to oily skin types. (There are three other types for normal to dry skin, Tinted Cream SPF50+, Melt-in cream with fragrance 50+ or Melt-in cream 50+ and 30+) It is also available in both 40 & 20 SPF. It is recommended to apply cream thirty minutes before exposure to the sun and to reapply regularly there after and even though it is a water resistant product it is advisable to reapply after bathing.

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Well, it is not very often that I get excited about using a sun protection cream so here is a first for me! I really loved this product from the minute I first applied it to my face and neck. It has such a lovely flowing velvety feel and so easy to apply evenly. It is a non perfumed product which I particularly like. More importantly it is also non-comedogenic (doesn’t cause blackheads!).The packaging is straight forward and I must say I am very impressed with the very informative leaflet enclosed, especially useful to me was the explanation of the difference between UVB and UVF because, as often as I am told the difference I forget just as quickly!

Also, when purchasing this product look out for the very informative brochure LA ROCHE-POSAY have supplied to Chemists concerning ‘Sun Risk Prevention From Mole to Melanoma’. They are also making a donation of One Euro to the Irish Cancer Society when you buy any Anthelios Fluid Extreme 50+ range.

I love the fact that this cream is tinted and lucky for me the light colour of the tint suits my skin which is fair perfectly – so much so that I now use it as a ‘tinted foundation’ but, of course I reapply regularly during the day when outdoors. I have been using this product for three weeks now and find it is giving me excellent protection from the elements! It comes in a 50ml size tube, is water resisant and is targeted at ‘Sun intolerant skin’. So in conclusion all I can say is that I would highly recommend this Sun Protection cream… as it does exactly as it says ‘on the tin’! The recommended retail price for this product is €19.50.

Don’t forget www.my-skincheck.com

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I LOVED this product! La Roche-Posay are always so good at skin care especially for sun protection but this is one of my favourites. I would definitely recommend this Anthelios Fluid Extreme 50+ to anyone looking for a high factor or to mix in with your own moisturiser reducing it’s factor to 25.

This product is recommended for anyone with sun intolerant skin, combination to oily skin and is water resistant. It’s non-perfumed, paraben free (preservative used in cosmetics), and has a lovely light weight texture that doesn’t leave that heavy greasy feeling on your skin. It absorbs straight in and doesn’t leave a shine. More importantly you are wearing a factor of 50+ unless you mix it with a moisturiser. Factor 50+ is great for anyone needing high protection or wanting to prevent previous sun damage done over the years from becoming any worse. I applied this in the morning after showering followed by foundation and daily make-up. The one sunny day we did have I applied it before sitting out (only for 30mins!!) and still got some colour, obviously without the harm.

La Roche Posay proved via 21 clinical studies that this is currently the best sun protection on the market so you don’t need to take my word for it! It is said to protect against UVA & UVB rays and ‘prevents cellular damage deep within the epidermis’.

They also do this in a spray version for the body that costs €22.50. Thumbs up for this product – great for anyone prone to clogging up from using heavier sun screens.

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You may remember we did a post back in February on skin cancer prevention. We mentioned at the time that La Roche Posay would be launching www.my-skincheck.com, well it’s live!

The idea of this site is so that you can map your own skin and it will retain all your information so that you will notice any changes. It also gives you advice on how to check those hard to reach areas, evaluates your risk level and gives advice on good sun habits. You will find listings of Dermatologists here too. By using this completely free tool you can keep an eye on your skin and go to the doctor as soon as there are any changes. As over 90% of skin cancers are curable if caught in time this is a great site to use.

If you want to learn more on this subject there is a Free Melanoma Skin Cancer Public Awareness lecture on the 14th May at 6pm in the Royal College of Surgeons. Go to www.besunaware.com for more information.

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The most important ingredient in any moisturiser is a sun protection factor. We should all be using an SPF all year round and increasing the factor now as it’s coming in to summer. Some people can be alergic to some sun screens, if that’s you then be sure you are using a physical sun screen instead. This is what would be used in childrens sun screens too, ask your therapist for advice on this. Also, be wary if you are prone to clogged skin to use an oil free sun screen, Dermalogica do a great range of sunscreens for all skin types. If you love your moisturiser and don’t want to use a different one just to have an SPF, then buy a high factor sun screen that you can mix with your moisturiser before applying. Again Dermalogica do a solar defense booster (pictures below) you can mix in. Remember by doing this you have now reduced the factor by half! Once you have your SPF organised that will prevent any further damage to your skin which will have built up since you were a child.

When you are choosing body or face creams there are some key ingredients to look out for. Be aware that the further up the list of ingredients you see things listed the more of that ingredient there is. I would recommend looking for:

Vitamin C - also known as ascorbic acid. People can be frightened when they read ‘acid’ but fruit acids are great. Vit C helps the elasticity in your skin by helping collagen production. It can also reduce the appearance of sun damage by reducing pigmentation. (Try to have plenty of Vit C in your diet also!)

Vitamin A – again it can be labelled as retin or retinol. This is a great ingredient to help combat anti-aging along with your SPF of course! It can have a mild exfoliating effect on the skin and can be helpful in treating acne.

Vitamin E – often listed as tocopherol or tocopherol acetate (in it’s synthetic form). Scary name for a great ingredient which enables your skin to repair itself by having natural healing qualities. It’s a natural moisture binder that will allow your skin to breathe and carry out it’s functions naturally.

So there is just a couple of key ingredients and tips to look out for when next purchasing skin care. As always it’s advisable to get professional skin analysis and advice from a qualified skin/beauty therapist to put you on the right path and avoid wasting money on products that aren’t suited to your skin type.

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