Straight from Pier54, unassuming tourists were treated to Alexander Wang’s Autumn/Winter ’10 collection. The show was streamed onto screens in Times Square that had the models storming down the catwalk in Wang’s latest collection. The Wall St banker aesthetic juxtaposed against the mantra of the gypsies is a statement to the tough economic times we are living in but also a rebellion against the banks restraints on creativity. Certainly no restraints were visible from any of the New York Fashion Week shows.
Wang had a strong vision for this collection: “I wanted this season to have this buttoned up, strict pristine feeling in the suiting. It’s well-tailored men’s jacket but taking that idea and not make it boring, dated and conservative. It’s the silhouette of kind of making the shoulders really tight and then longer in the sleeves so that it goes past the hands and taking off all the buttons off the jacket so that it almost becomes like a layering piece like a cardigan. Then taking the jacket from the top and using it as a skirt, the lapel and using it as a bra top.”
The texture most visible was ‘velour du jour’, velvet pieces for every occasion that could be carried from day into night. Deconstructed suits, capes reminiscent of hippies and his classic chiffon mixed dresses made this collection an enviable one. For such a young and new designer, the others should be shaking in their Prada boots. Images above of Wang‘s collection – below Rodarte.
Rodarte, the spearheads of romanticism didn’t disappoint either. The Mulleavy sisters built their collection on the idea of sleepwalking which carried a dream like quality around the room. They said that their collection had been influenced by a recent drive through Mexico and the town of Ciudad Juárez disturbed them.
The models looked like a haze floating down the catwalk in crisp whites and creams mixed with colourful print work. Their take on the wool jumper added a fresh feel to the worn out designs that have come before them – wrapping the fabric from around the neck to under the arm. The Mexican ethnicity was visible in tasselled skirts and patchwork, and their lace leggings are sure to reverberate in collections to come. Nicholas Kirkwood’s heels set off the collection perfectly and the dark washed hair of the models slicked back added the Rodarte edge to a more feminine collection. The show ended with a white lace gown, resembling a distressed wedding dress – A perfect day for a Rodarte wedding.
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