Posted on 17 May 2010.

It’s estimated that as many as 80% of women wear the wrong size bra. It may seem like a trivial thing, but if you’re wearing the right bra, you’ll look slimmer, trimmer, beautifully proportioned- and to top it off you’ll feel way more comfortable than you ever have before.
There are ways to know you’re the wearing the wrong size bra. If there’s the dreaded spillage over the top of the cups, if the bra is riding up, if the straps are digging in too much, if the band at the back is riding higher steadily, or if the underwire isn’t right against your ribcage, the chances are you’re wearing the wrong bra. It’s not as easy as it looks to get the right size. Generally there’s something of a horror moment when you think about someone measuring you in a store; it’s my opinion that they’re wrong a lot of the time- not because of ineptitude, but because they’re going about things the wrong way.
I’ve spent years trying to work out the right size. Anyone who’s tried to measure themselves may find themselves in the unhappy position of adding 4 or 5 inches to their measurement because that’s what they’ve been told to do. I swear by the fact that this method does not work. Bras are elasticated now; there’s a certain amount of give in them, without adding an extra four or five inches!

So I’ll pass on another method to measure yourself- the one that finally solved all of my problems when I consistently had the wrong fit. Use a flexible, plastic dressmaker’s measuring tape, and first measure the circumference of your body, just underneath your bust, making sure that the measuring tape is running straight around your body. Usually here, people say to add four or five inches. No Need. If it says 34, you’re a 34. If it says 35, try both a 34 and a 36 for comfort; usually rounding up to the 36 works better. Adding five inches means that you get no support whatsoever. The back will ride up, it will always feel loose, your boobs may even fall out of the front. Adding four or five inches will be the bane of your life. You have been warned.
Second, you have to measure for your cup size. Measure around the fullest part of your bust, again making sure that the tape is running straight around your body. I advise that here you be a little loose with the tape. Don’t go digging it into your skin. If you find yourself with an odd number here, definitely round up. Rounding down mean spillage!!
In order to determine your cup size, subtract your band size measurement from your cup size measurement. Each of the letters (A, B, C, D etc) represents an inch of difference. So if you got a 34 for band size, and a 35 sup size, you are a 34A, A representing the one inch difference. What, you ask, if I have a 34 band size, but 34.5 for a cup size? That means that you are a 34AA- not a full inch difference. If you are a band size 36, and a cup size 41, you are a 36DD- a five inch difference.
But be warned here! This is not definitive. Never buy a bra without trying on a few. Use the measurements you now have for yourself and try a number of bras in that size. People often ask about whether they just clip the bra in the loosest or tightest hooks. The answer is that you use the tightest fitting that is still comfortable. You should be able to run your finger- but not more than that- underneath the band.
Commercial bras are tricky beasts. You know the way you could be a size 10 in some stores, and maybe even a 14 in others? Bras are the same. There are no strict standards. So if you find that the band is too tight even on the loosest clipping, consider going up a band size, say from a 32 to a 34. However! If you do this, you must compensate by changing the cup size- if you’re going from a 32B to a 34, you must get a 34A cup. It sounds complicated, but it’s not. It’s just about readjusting.
When the band size is sorted, we can consider cup size. You should fill, but not overfill, the cup. If you’re under-filling, go down a cup size. If there’s any bulging, go up a cup size. A small caveat here- if it seems to fit, try on the next biggest cup size anyway, It may be that this one is even better.
Adjust the straps so that they’re not digging into your skin. Make sure that the bra doesn’t ride up in any way (consider stretching your arms up and down, bend over as though to pick something up, and dance a few steps. If you still feel safe in it, it’s perfect.
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